This article appeared in the July 1997 issue of Reptiles Magazine
Veiled Chameleon Captive Diet
Veiled chameleons, as mentioned before, are primarily insectivorous but
will take some plant matter in their diet. Providing feeder insects with the correct
balance of calcium to phosphorus is of critical importance in the veiled chameleon captive
diet. If reptiles are not provided with a balanced diet, they will develop a dietary
deficiencies such as a condition called metabolic bone disease. Metabolic bone disease is
a calcium deficiency that results from an improper diet, and may also be caused by the
lack of vitamin D3. Veiled chameleons require a diet that has a 2:1 calcium to phosphorous
ratio. To provide this, it is necessary to fortify the insects before they are fed to the
animal. Domestic crickets are the staple of the veiled chameleon captive diet; however,
crickets only have a 1:1 calcium to phosphorous ratio. There are several ways to improve
the calcium content of crickets and other prey items. The first is a procedure called
"gut-loading".
Gut-loading involves feeding the feeder insects a good, high calcium diet
before they are fed to the chameleon. The reasoning behind this considers that predators
not only consume the prey item, but they consume the intestinal contents of the prey as
well. The intestinal contents of prey items plays an important role in providing a well
balanced diet. Variety is extremely important in captive reptile diets, and as such, it is
important to vary the gut-loading material fed to feeder insects as well. Here is a sample
gut-loading regimen: week 1-Collard greens, oranges, tropical fish food flakes, week
2-Mustard greens, melon, crushed dry iguana diet, week 3-Crushed alfalfa pellets, carrots,
crushed high quality cat food. This may seem rather elaborate and a pain, but it is
important in providing the chameleon with as wide a variety of nutrition as possible.
Varied diets lessen the chance of a dietary deficiency, and contribute greatly to the
overall health of the animal. Other insects may be offered to the chameleon as well
including: king mealworms, mealworms, nightcrawlers (yes, veiled chameleons will eat them,
but it makes a mess!), cockroaches, waxworms, pill bugs, and houseflies. The first five
insects on this list can be purchased from commercial breeders, bait shops, or pet stores,
but the rest must usually be collected. It is difficult to provide enough variety in the
veiled chameleon diet solely by relying on the stock kept regularly at pet stores or bait
shops, so check around the classified section of herp magazines to locate some sellers of
the more exotic insects. Another way to provide variety in veiled chameleon captive diets
is to collect insects from a pesticide free area. I use a fine mesh net and sweep it
through an area of tall grass. This "meadow plankton" can be a valued part of a
captive diet. Do not feed veiled chameleons too many wax or mealworms, these insects have
a very low Ca:P ratio and can cause problems. Offer two or three different insects at one
feeding (provided that the insects will not kill each other in the food dish). Another
very important aspect of veiled chameleon captive diets is calcium supplementation.
Although gut-loading improves the nutritional content of feeder insects
tremendously, it is also important to ensure that the chameleon is getting enough calcium.
Calcium supplementation is an easy way to provide for this necessity. High quality calcium
supplements can be purchased at good pet stores, or through mail-order companies. After
the insects have been properly gut-loaded, put some insects into a plastic bag and add a
pinch of supplement. Shake the bag up and down like a shake-and-bake pork chop so the
insects are completely coated. If one keeps a large amount of feeder crickets around at
one time, it may be difficult to get some in the bag without inadvertently freeing a large
number of extra crickets, which will soon end up in your bedroom chirping all night and
driving you crazy. To avoid this annoying encounter, simply place a cardboard tube from a
used roll of toilet paper or paper towels in with the crickets. A good number of crickets
will always choose to hide in such areas, and the tube can be easily lifted, with the
crickets inside, and shaken into the coating bag. The feeder insects should be coated with
calcium supplement every day for young veiled chameleons, and every other day for adult
veiled chameleons. Young veileds must be fed every day, twice a day if possible. The best
starter food source for young veileds is small crickets, as young veileds tend to
regurgitate other insects such as mealworms (Tremper, 1995). Adult veileds will eat every
other day. The best way to offer feeder insects to veiled chameleons is in a raised dish.
Use an opaque dish with smooth sides so the insects cannot crawl out, but the chameleon
can easily locate its food. This prevents the insects from dispersing into the cage and
irritating the animal while it sleeps. Variety and proper supplementation are the most
important aspects of the veiled chameleon captive diet. Another important aspect of veiled
chameleon captive diets is providing clean drinking water.
It is very important to provide veiled chameleons with clean water on a
regular basis. Veiled chameleons, and many other arboreal lizards, will not drink from a
standing dish of water (although I have heard they can be trained to do so). Veileds just
don't seem to recognize water for what it is unless it is in motion. The best way to
provide veiled chameleons with water is to set up a drip system. There are several ways to
set up a drip system, but the easiest is to just place an ice cube on the top of the
enclosure, with a cup at the bottom to catch the drips as the cube melts. It is best to
place the water source so that it drips onto the side of a leaf, where the animal can
easily lap it off. Other drip systems can be made from deli cups or medical IV tubing.
Some companies are even selling large plastic containers with spigots on them as
commercial chameleon drippers. Although these systems work well, they are expensive for
what they are. Be careful with drip systems, they can quickly flood the animal's cage,
creating an unhealthy situation. Misting the enclosure has an advantage over drip systems,
it raises the relative humidity. The relative humidity in the enclosure should be kept
around 50-60% most of the time, this can easily be accomplished by misting the enclosure
once or twice during the day.
Conclusion
The veiled chameleon is an impressive and challenging reptile to keep.
Although the veiled chameleon is among the hardiest of its genus, it still requires rather
specialized care. Anyone who is considering keeping veiled or other chameleons should seek
out and read as much of the available literature as possible before purchasing the animal,
do not purchase and then attempt to learn all that is required to keep these animals
successfully. Learning what is required beforehand will reduce stress on both the keeper
and the kept.
Literature Cited
Annis, John M. 1995. "Veiled Chameleon (Chamaeleo calyptratus)
Natural History, Captive Management, and Breeding". In Care and Breeding of Panther,
Jackson's, Veiled, and Parson's Chameleons. Advanced Vivarium Systems. pp. 77-99.
Bertoni, Ribello M. 1994. "Veiled Chameleons". Reptile and
Amphibian Magazine. July/August 1994. pp. 65-77.
Henkel, F. W. and Heinecke, S. 1994. Chamaeleons im Terrarium. Landbuch.
Tremper, Ronald L. 1995. "Herptoculture of the Veiled Chameleon (Chamaeleo
calyptratus)". In Care and Breeding of Panther, Jackson's, Veiled, and Parson's
Chameleons. Advanced Vivarium Systems. pp. 101-108.